Crate Training Your Puppy or Adult Dog

Crate training is the easiest way to housetrain your puppy and it also ensures that your dog is safe and secure while you are not at home. Dogs prefer an enclosed space and feel the most secure when they have a “room” of their own. Most dogs will keep this space as clean as possible, as long as they are given sufficient opportunities to eliminate elsewhere throughout the day.

USES OF THE CRATE

It is highly recommended that you keep your dog crated when you cannot be home. Those who deem this as cruel and inhumane are obviously unfamiliar with canine instincts and behavior. Your dog sleeps about 90% of the time you are away. The remaining 10% of the time that your dog will either: Spend quality time in a safe, secure and very natural environment, entertaining himself by chewing or playing with toys that are safe and appropriate for him. Spend time in an environment with unlimited dangers, entertaining himself by chewing on woodwork, noisily barking at passers by, digging through the carpeting, or other similar behaviors. Where would you rather have your dog? Even if you’ve always kept Rover out with no problems, it would only take one time for him to chew through an electrical cord and die instantly. Or choke on something left on the floor. Or learn how fun it is to tear up sofa cushions. The quickest way to teach a dog bad behaviors is to not be around to interrupt them. That’s why leaving your dog out in a fenced yard or tie out is not an option either. With a crate, you know your dog is safe and happy. You can housetrain him easier. You can take the crate with you on vacation and he’ll love that you brought his “home” with, making him much more secure in unfamiliar surroundings. If you have friends over who don’t enjoy dogs, you can crate your dog and not have to worry about him bothering your guests. Crates make it easier for other people to care for your dog when you go on vacation. Crates make is easier to feed dogs in a multi-dog household, so they don’t fight over and steal each others food. The list goes on and on. In short, if you love your dog, crate train him.

THE CRATE

Crates come in a variety of styles and sizes. There are two basic types: The full wire crate or the plastic travel crate. The advantage of the wire crate is that it allows for better airflow due to the mesh construction and most are fully collapsible for easy transport. Some dogs prefer the enclosed plastic because it’s more den-like while others like the wire crate because they can see everything going on around them. Both types are comparable in price. If you’re purchasing the crate for a puppy, either buy a small size crate or buy a large one and partition it off so the puppy only has enough room to stand up with his neck at a comfortable angle, sit, turn around, and lie down comfortably. The advantage of partitioning off a large crate is that the puppy can then grow into the crate and there’s no need to keep buying a new one as the puppy grows. Some crates come with partitions; otherwise use a cardboard box or other safe barrier. If you’re purchasing the crate for an unhousetrained adult dog or older puppy, buy one of the size so the dog only has enough room to stand up, sit, turn around, and lie down comfortably – just like with a puppy, because they aren’t any further along than puppies in knowing what being housetrained means! They also, like puppies, will feel more secure the more “den-like” the space is.

INTRODUCING THE PUPPY TO THE CRATE

When you bring your puppy home, confine him to one room of the house with a baby gate or similar barrier. Put a blanket, some toys, and a favorite treat in the crate and set the crate in the room. Do not pressure the puppy to go near or into the crate, rather, let the puppy explore the room and discover the crate on his own. If the puppy doesn’t go into the crate on his own, put the treat near the front of the crate so he can get it. Do this over and over, each time moving the treat back further and further into the crate, until the puppy walks into and out of it with no hesitation. When the puppy seems comfortable with the crate, put another treat in back of the kennel and when the puppy goes in, close the door for 5-10 seconds and then open it. Do this over a few times. Then, begin to steadily increase the amount of time the door is closed. Most puppies will begin to protest the situation after a few minutes in the crate. Very important – absolutely do not open the door if he whines or barks! If you do, you’re teaching him that every time he does this, you’ll give in to what he wants – you’re actually rewarding bad behavior. Wait until the puppy settles down and is quiet for 15 seconds, then let him out. When you let him out, do not praise him or react to him in any way. Simply act neutrally. Work the puppy up to longer and longer periods of time in the crate, both with you in and out of the room until the puppy is quiet and comfortable in it. (Hint: a tired puppy will not put up as much of a fuss. You’ll find this training easier if you do it after the puppy has had a walk, a play session, or some other physical exercise to wear him out.) Some puppies take to the crate right away and never make a fuss, while others will fight it to no end. Be patient, as most dogs grow up to truly love their crates, regardless of how they reacted to it as a pup. It’s worth the initial work! Develop a cue, such as “Kennel up!” or “Go to bed!”, for when you want the puppy to go into the crate and use it even when you have to physically place him in. Always, even after the dog is completely crate trained, give him a treat for going in. You want to make the crate the most positive, happy place in the world. Never, ever use the crate to punish the dog! A dog that has been properly crate trained will often go in voluntarily to hang out or nap. Most dogs will also make a beeline for it upon hearing “kennel up” and wait enthusiastically for a treat. If the dog understands this cue and doesn’t kennel up as he’s supposed to, simply walk toward the dog in a slow, controlled manner. Gently hold the collar and lead him to the crate, repeating the cue “kennel up” in a happy voice. Throw in a treat and lavish praise when he goes in. This method makes it seem to the dog that the outside of the crate is not a fun place to be, while the inside is a great place to be. If the dog insists on a game of “catch me” when you attempt this, simply continue to walk toward the dog in a slow controlled manner (don’t run or yell “come here”) until the dog realizes that no matter when he runs or how long he runs, he’s going to get caught. After a few times of this, you should only have to take one step toward your dog and he’ll decide “I guess I better go in the crate now.”

THE FIRST NIGHT

If possible, bring the pup home on the weekend, preferably Saturday morning. That way, you’ll have the whole day to get the puppy accustomed to you, your home, and the crate. Take a break between each session of crate training, and make his transition as gradual and pleasant as possible. The first night, bring the crate up to your bedroom and set it next to your bed. If it’s a small crate, place it on a chair at eye level. You may want to put a hot water bottle under the blanket in the crate to stimulate body warmth and/or a ticking clock outside the crate to soothe him. Put some toys in as well. Turn the crate door to face you so the puppy can see that you are right there. Most puppies, after a full day of excitement and experiencing all the stresses of a new home, will sleep soundly the first night. Don’t be surprising if he whines or whimpers a little when you first put him down, as he should settle after that. If the puppy ever wakes up during the night and cries, he may have to go out. Young puppies have very small bladders and are sometimes not able to make it through the entire night. Because most puppies will not dirty their crates, they will cry to be let out. The only time you should ever let your puppy out of the crate when he whimpers or barks is when you suspect he has to go potty.

HOUSETRAINING

As mentioned above, most puppies will not willingly dirty their living space. This is where the beauty of crate training comes in. Crate training eliminates many “mistakes” in the house, because you can be assured that the puppy will not mess when you’re not around to watch him. Follow the regular rules of housetraining by bringing the puppy out when he has finished a meal, drunk water, gotten up from a nap, played for a length of time, is suddenly sniffing and running in circles, etc. When you can’t watch the puppy every second, put the puppy in his crate. When you let him out again, pick him up and bring him right outside and praise, praise, praise when he goes (add treats if your puppy is a food freak)! Be sure to pick the puppy up when you bring him out, as this eliminates any possible “mistake’ made on the way to the back door. Remember, every “mistake” reinforces that it’s OK to mess in the house – so don’t let him make any! If you have to be gone for a length of time during the day, try to have someone (maybe a neighbor), let him out while you’re gone. A young puppy should not be left in a crate for more than 3-4 hours, as their bladders are not developed enough yet to hold it. If a dog has to potty and has no other alternative, he will soil is crate. It is imperative that he be given sufficient chances to relieve himself throughout the day when you are gone. A very good time to crate your puppy is right after he has a meal or drinks water. If you crate him for just five minutes and then take him out, he’ll go almost immediately. This eliminates the need for you to keep your eyes glued on him in hopes that you’ll catch him in time to get him out. Remember, eliminate all chances of a “mistake!” If your 6-12 week old puppy does make a mistake in the house, simply clean up the mess. This puppy is too young yet to have any bladder/bowel control, and punishing the dog will only cause it emotional stress. It’s vital that puppies have minimal negative experiences the first couple of weeks after coming to a new home. After 12 weeks, give the puppy a short, stern “no” ONLY if you catch him in the act of eliminating/urinating in the house (if you’re 10 seconds too late, you’re too late) and immediately rush him outside. Whether he finishes going out there or not, praise him and give him a treat as soon as he gets up from squatting. Only after the dog really seems to have an understanding of housetraining should you give him the opportunity to make a mistake. This “test” will determine whether or not you’re going to need to backtrack a little (usually meaning more crate time again), or give the dog more freedom. Many people make the mistake of assuming that Rover is potty trained now, so let’s give him the run of the house.” Dogs are very time and place specific, and he may have it in his head that he is only not to eliminate in the kitchen (or whichever room you have had him in since 7 weeks) and he will eliminate everywhere but that room. Give him his freedom slowly, one room at a time, and don’t be afraid to take back that freedom if he makes mistakes. And remember, be patient!

INTRODUCING THE ADULT DOG TO THE CRATE

 Adult dogs can be crate trained! Sometimes they are easier, and sometimes they are harder, than puppies to get accustomed to a crate. Adult dogs are trained in exactly the same way puppies are (see above). Adult dogs, however, do not eliminate as often as puppies and are more mentally able to understand the concept of housetraining – both of which can make housetraining an older dog easier. However, if an adult dog is used to messing in the house or he has a medical problem of some sort, it can be harder to housetrain. In any case, a crate will make your housetraining chore much, much easier.